My Dad and Uncle Visit Korea, Part 1

Even before I left for Korea last November, my dad had mentioned that he might try and visit me.  In the past he has suggested trips only to say that it was just a hypothetical later on.  So when he finally booked a flight for a visit in the summer I was quite surprised.  Both he and my uncle flew in to Seoul on the 31^st of July and then also went to Japan together for four nights.  Here is a recap of their visit:

My uncle (far right) and dad (second from right)
were headed to Seoul!

Korean public schools get over a month off for summer break in late June and August.  On the other hand, the private institutes (like the one I work for) often have much shorter breaks.  During the summer break from public school parents sign their kids up for extra classes at our school, so we actually are busier!  What a great vacation for the students – a full day of English classes!  My break was four days long (well six if you count the weekend), from Tuesday, July 31^st through Sunday, August 5^th.

Yeah what a fun vacation!

My dad and uncle both flew in on the 31^st, although on different flights.  Unfortunately my uncle’s plane, coming from LA, was delayed by 2 hours.  On the bright side it gave me and my Dad more alone time to catch up.  The two of them arrived without any major snafus, and on Tuesday night they stayed at a hotel near my apartment.

The hotel that we booked, along with most of the others during the trip, are known in Korea as ‘love motels.’  Many Koreans do not leave their parents’ home until marriage, so if they want a night – or even a few hours – of privacy, then they go to these establishments.  And yes I do mean a few hours; one can actually rent a room by the hour.  Many of them are actually quite nice though.  There are even screens covering the parking lot so friends and family won’t recognize your car!  They also offer reasonable prices, so it is a nice balance if you are looking for comfort without breaking the bank.

Love motels often have covered parking areas 

so passers by won't recognize anyone's car!

But the rooms are often nice - a great value compared to the top end hotels

I wanted to make the most of my Dad and Uncle’s short time in Korea, and our trip was pretty packed with activities.  I was worried that the long flight and time change would make it hard for them to really enjoy the trip.  At the beginning I could tell that they were a bit stressed and tired, but I think the second half of the trip was better.  Korea is far from a normal travel destination for them, so it also just took awhile to get acclimated to the culture.

On Wednesday morning we bused from Seoul to Andong, a small city of around 170,000.  Andong is home to a famous folk village that is supposed to be very well preserved.  In Seoul the folk villages are mostly rebuilt, so I wanted to visit something more original.  The problem was that we had limited time and (to my surprise) the folk village is actually 20 km outside of the city.  We arrived close to 1 pm and were scheduled to catch a train to Gyeongju at 5:30.  After looking into taking a bus to the village, we eventually settled on a taxi.

When we arrived we walked around the entrance area and looked for a place to eat.  I ordered Andong jimdak, an Andong specialty with chicken, noodles, and vegetables marinated in Korean soy sauce.  For my Dad and Uncle’s sake I made sure to tell the server to tone down the spiciness.  Even then they thought it was quite spicy.

Andong jimdak, with chicken, carrots, potatoes, onions,
garlic, chili pepper, and marinated soy sauce

Makkoli can be served with traditional bowls...

or from a more modern bottle / can

After a relaxing lunch and bottle of Makkoli (a sweet Korean rice wine) it was already after 3:00.  The bus back to the station came infrequently, so we had to catch one at 4:10 to arrive in time for the train.  It was a hot day – probably 35 degrees Celsius (mid 90s) – so less than an hour of walking time seemed okay.  But then we walked past the stores and restaurants to discover that we had to take another bus to the actual village.  Not knowing how long the ride would take or if we could make it back in time, we opted just to stay and wait for the bus to town.  It was a disappointment, and I also felt bad for not having planned it out better.

Well the village seems nice from pictures,
but I can't confirm that!

To top it off, when the bus came it was completely full and the driver simply drove past the stop.  There were also about a dozen Koreans there who were pissed off too.  With the help of a Korean we called a taxi to pick us up.  The bus station was on one side of Andong, and the train station on the complete opposite side of town.  Luckily we still had extra time to spare, so we made the train without much difficulty.  After the experience in Andong I was ready to move on the Gyeongju in hopes that the change of location may improve our trip’s fortunes.

Gyeongju is in the southeast, north of Busan

We arrived in Gyeongju, a city of a quarter of a million, at around 8 pm.  I had booked a traditional guest house for the two nights that we would be staying in the city.  It looked to be within walking distance of the train station, but the map I had was not detailed enough to give us specific directions.  We had to ask several Koreans if they knew of the place, and even when a 7/11 worker called she still couldn’t figure out exactly where it was.  Luckily a local was kind enough to walk with us to the building.  I am glad he did, because we couldn’t have found it on our own in the dark (or even daylight for that matter).

Even though the sun had gone down, at that point it was still in the 80s.  When my dad and uncle saw that there was no AC in our room it was a quick decision to find a new place.  Since I hadn’t paid in advance fortunately we didn’t lose out on any money.  We ended up booking another love motel after we made sure it had a working AC.  After a simple dinner of sandwiches it was off to an early night sleep.

The following morning we rented bicycles from the Gyeongju train station.  For the whole day it was only 7,000 Won (less than $7)!  To the east of the downtown area there is a lake with resorts and a nice bike path, so we decided to check it out.  We had lunch near the lake – beef soup for me and bibimbap for my uncle and dad.  Bibimbap is a mix of rice, veggies, and usually an egg with some sort of pepper paste.  It is typically mild and became a good fall back for them if the other dishes were too spicy.

Bibimbap served in a traditional bowl
(the rice is served under the other
ingredients and you mix it yourself)

After completing the lake loop we rode in the north of the town where we saw a war memorial, several sports stadiums, and what looked to be a convention center.  We then made our way to the south end of town.  That’s where we found a lot of good historical sites.  We walked around a series of massive mound graves from the Shilla Dynasty which date at least as far back as 1500 years.  The Shilla Dynasty ruled much of the Korean peninsula for all but a few years of the first millennium CE (and actually united Korea in the 7^th century).  Shilla made Gyeongju its capital, and today the city is still known throughout Korea for its historical importance.  We also saw a Shilla-era palace (Anapji Pond) and the oldest observation tower in East Asia.

Modern Gyeongju isn't much different than other Korean towns,
but historical relics are sprinkled around the built up area

There are numerous giant hill-tombs in
a park near the city center

Bomun Lake isn't too far and a good spot for walking or cycling

By the time we checked in our bikes at the train station it was getting dark and we were spent and hungry.  After double checking that the dish wasn’t too spicy, we settled on a chicken, rice, and onion ensemble for dinner.  Like many meals in Korea, it was heated up on a grill at our table.  I like the concept, but you have to make sure that everyone is in agreement on what to order.  It turned out to be pretty good and I think my dad and uncle also enjoyed it.

The following day we had decided to visit a large ancient temple complex called Bulguksa.  It lies just south of Gyeongju, but a bit too far to cycle.  We hopped on the train for one stop, then caught a cab.  In normal circumstances I would have walked it, but the heat and our luggage were a bit too much for a hike.  The cab driver suggested we also see a Buddhist shrine called Seokguram Grotto.  We agreed to go to the Grotto first and then the temple.  Although the Grotto is only 4 kilometers from Bulguksa, it takes a good 15 minutes up a windy mountain road.

My dad wasn’t too thrilled about how long the extra trip took, but it only cost us 13,000 Won ($11-12).  The driver said he would pick us up in 40 minutes in the parking lot and take us to Bulguksa.  He also offered to keep our luggage in the trunk so that we didn’t have to carry it on the trail.  My uncle and I were okay with it, but my dad was a bit hesitant.  I can understand why, but I figured that I had his card (with the taxi license number) in case anything went wrong.  Plus – and I know this is a generalization – Koreans have come across as some of the most trustworthy people I have ever met.

My dad’s reservations aside, the Grotto was a definitely a good suggestion.  And when we came back to the parking lot the cab was there waiting for us.  The next stop, Bulguksa temple, was also well worth the trip.  The Buddhist temple is one of the most famous historical sites in all Korea.  Although it has been rebuilt several times (a common theme here) there are considerable elements that remain from the 751 CE original (not so common).

the Seokguram Grotto is not very imposing, but fits well
within the misty hills outside Gyeongju

inside the grotto

the temple ruins in the early 20th century

the restored interior

By the time we were done touring Bulguksa we needed to head back to the train station.  At 1:30 we caught a train bound for Daegu, the fourth-largest city in Korea.  That afternoon, after some shopping around, we again settled on a love motel.  In the evening we took a long stroll around the city center.  The main commercial street in Daegu reminded me of Seoul, with a seemingly endless stream of people.  The difference was that there may be a couple places like that in Daegu – whereas in Seoul they are everywhere.

The central walking area feels similar to Seoul

central Daegu

That evening we stumbled upon a TGI Fridays.  I was hesitant to go to a Western chain, but we had already had dinner and were just getting drinks.  I’m glad my dad and uncle suggested it, because the beer special was a draft for 1,000 Won (less than a dollar)!  We relaxed at the bar with our cheap drinks and watched Olympic highlights before again calling it an early night.

The next day our train for Seoul was scheduled to leave in the early afternoon.  Before heading to the station we took a look at two old churches near downtown and met a Korean woman who showed us a late 19^th century missionary’s house.  There was a small museum inside, and although it was nearly all in Korean we still enjoyed the visit.  Oddly enough we also ran into a tour group of Guatemalan dentists outside of the house.  I never did find out why exactly they had come to Korea or for that matter Daegu – which is far removed from the tourist trail.

Even though the distance was greater than our previous rides the trip to Seoul took under two hours.  The reason was that this time we took KTX, the fastest option for public transport in Korea.  It wasn’t as fast as the bullet train in Japan, but it sure beat the buses.  I wanted to try and make it to a baseball game that night, but unfortunately the timing was too close and we had to put the idea on hold.  

Instead my dad and uncle did laundry at my apartment and then I gave them a tour of Lotte Department Store.  The mall has to be one of the largest in Seoul and comes complete with a movie theater, supermarket, indoor ice rink, amusement park, Toys-R-Us fun zone, restaurants, and of course, endless shopping opportunities; not that we were too interested in the shopping.  But Lotte is a must see even for those of us who generally try and avoid malls.

The indoor ice rink, packed as usual!

On Sunday morning I took my dad and uncle to the Seoul National Cemetery.  Constructed following the Korean War, it is the final resting place for some 55,000 Koreans, plus many more unknown soldiers.  Most are from the Korean War, but casualties from Korea’s war of independence from Japan and from the Vietnam War are also included.  Prominent politicians and their wives are also buried there (although there has been some change of late nearly all prominent politicians in Korea have been men).  The weather was ridiculously hot so we had to call it quits after less than an hour of touring the grounds.

part of the large National Cemetery grounds

Next we stopped in Yeouido for lunch.  Yeouido – a small island in the Han River – is known as Seoul’s Manhattan.  It isn’t nearly as big a part of Seoul as Manhattan is to New York, but it is home to some of the city’s largest skyscrapers as well as the national assembly.  While there we ran into another example of great Korean hospitality.  I asked our waiter if he knew where we could go on the island to catch a boat tour along the Han River.  After looking it up on his smartphone he dashed out the door of the restaurant saying, “wait 5 minutes, I’ll drive.”  He showed up in 4 with his car and then drove us to the ferry station.  My uncle tried to give him cash but he refused and went on his way, presumably back to the restaurant.

view of the financial center from Yeouido Park

63 Tower - the tallest building in Seoul (but soon to be surpassed by Lotte Tower in Jamsil!)

The next boat tour wasn’t scheduled to leave for two hours, so instead we decided to try our luck at the baseball stadium.  A note on Korean baseball – they play nearly as many games as US teams, but every one (at least in Seoul) has a playoff-like atmosphere.  When their team is up to bat the fans cheer, sing, and dance the whole time.  Plus you are allowed to bring in anything to the game, booze included.  Koreans don’t seem to know about the concept of price gauging – a fresh beer inside the stadium runs less than US $2.50!

I think my dad and uncle really enjoyed the game, and my dad commented that it was the best experience he had ever had at a baseball game.  Back home baseball has always seemed boring to me.  Even though the game itself is the same, the atmosphere makes it so much more entertaining.

the atmosphere at Korean baseball  games sure beats the MLB!

The cheerleaders are a big hit too (the guy in the middle
leads team chants and gets the crowd pumped up)

When the game was over my dad and uncle stopped by my apartment to pick up their luggage and headed off to the hotel.  The following day they had to catch an early flight to Japan, so they spent Sunday night at a hotel near the airport.  Their plan was to stay in Japan Monday night through Friday morning, then fly back to Seoul for the weekend.  I had to work during the week and wouldn’t have been able to spend much time with them, so it worked out well.

More on their second weekend in Seoul soon!