The Cameroon Highlands and Penang


 

One of the reasons why I stayed for over a week in KL was because Mel invited me to go with her to Ipoh the following weekend.  Her parents live in Ipoh, a small city 2 hours north of KL.  I got to meet her parents and stayed at their house for two nights.  Several of Mel's friends came along for the trip, but they could only stay one night - oh how nice it is not to have to be back to work on Mondays!

Ipoh is well known for its food, but not much else.  As with many cities in Malaysia, there is a large ethnic Chinese population in Ipoh.  I was lucky to have Mel and her friends introduce me to a few local dishes.  Once they left for KL I had little reason to stay though.  So the following morning I took a bus to Cameron Highlands.  The Cameron Highlands is frequented by Malay and foreign tourists alike for its (relatively) cool weather, strawberry farms, tea plantations, and hiking trails.

After having stayed in 30+ degree KL and Ipoh it was nice to have a break from the hot weather.  Temperatures in the highlands rarely go above the low 20s (low 70s F), and nights can be chilly.  I met a lot of backpackers at my hostel, and on the second day we went hiking on a nearby trail.  We also signed up for a group tour to a tea plantation and butterfly farm.  The hike and tour were nice, but in general the highlands were too commercialized for my taste.  Highlands in the Philippines felt more remote (in a good way).  You could get off the beaten path on a hike, but most other activities were busy with visitors.

tea plantation in the Highlands
On uneven hills where modern machines cannot be used 
collecting tea leaves is still done largely by hand
The butterfly farm included many more types of
animals such as beetles, snakes, and scorpions 

Feeling that two nights in the highlands were enough, I decided to head next to Georgetown.  Georgetown is a city on the island of Penang in northwest Malaysia.  I actually had visited in 2008 during my SAS trip.  Back then I didn't have much time to explore the city on my own, so I was looking forward to seeing the town again.  I also like visiting a city more than once to see how my impression changes.

Georgetown is Malaysia's second largest metro (second to KL).  After the British takeover of Malaysia in the late 18th century Malacca began a gradual decline, losing prominence to Gerogetown, which was founded in 1786.  Many of the homes in the central city feature British colonial and Chinese style architecture.  The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is a good place to get lost on a long walk.

typical busy street in old Georgetown
The skyscraper, visible from much of the city, is the  
center of a large mall and bus terminal

The first night I stayed in what may have been the cheapest dorm in the city - only 4 dollars!  But for some reason the place attracted an older crowd.  Not older backpackers in their 30s; I mean AARP eligible members.  Also the dorm windows opened up to a street frequented by noisy motorcycles during all hours of the night.  The second night I stayed at a different dorm, this time with younger travelers.  The street was noisy too, but after a night drinking I didn't have as much trouble getting to sleep.

While in Gerogetown I visited several Chinese Bhuddist temples.  The artwork and level of detail in the carvings, paintings, etc is extraordinary   Once I saw a few, however, they started to look the same.  The most impressive temple I saw was Kek Lok Si, on the outskirts of town.  Chinese New Year was just around the corner and at night the temple complex shone bright with thousands of colorful lights.  When I visited it was unfortunately closed to guests, but the outside was more than impressive enough.

Kek Lok Si temple by day...
...and night

I also took a rail car up Penang HIll, the largest on the island with great views of the surrounding city.  But on my way to the hill I lost my camera!!  I either left it at my table in an outdoor food stall or at the bus station - I rushed back to check both spots only to come up empty handed.  I was pissed for sure, but it's not like that was my first camera incident.  Let's just say I am unlucky with them.  I've broken a camera in Namibia (sand in the lens), lost one in China, Sweden, and now Malaysia.  That day I went to the mall and bought a cheap one that I wouldn't be too upset losing.  Luckily the last one wasn't super nice either, but in addition to the camera I also lost my pictures from Malaysia!

rail car up Penang Hill
fantastic views of Georgetown from the top

The last day in Penang I took a public bus out to the northwest tip of the island for a hike.  That corner was covered by a national park with nice walking trails.  I ran into tourists for sure, but it is amazing how easily you can get away from the crowds.  The following day I was ready to get even farther from those crowds and head to a beach!

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