Onto Cambodia and Siem Reap

May 19, 2013

The flight from Vientiane to Siem Reap was not too eventful, and that's what I wanted. I could truly appreciate it after the trip from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang. The extra cost for the flight was definitely worth foregoing on a two day bus ride. We left Vientaine early in the morning and arrived in Siem Reap that same morning, no small feat in Southeast Asia.

Siem Reap (here spelled Siemreab) is in northwest

Cambodia, only a few kilometers from Angkor Wat

Siem Reap is the town closest to Angkor Wat, a temple complex that is visited by half of all visitors to Cambodia. I didn't find out how many visitors have come recently, but in 2004 and 2005 the numbers were 561,000 and 677,000 foreigners, respectively That number has continued to grow and I'd be very surprised if it is less than a million today. It wasn't even high season and the temples were still busy with visitors.

Angkor Wat was originally a Hindu temple but then became Buddhist when the king converted. It is in many ways a symbol of Cambodia, appearing on the flag and in countless art pieces for sale in and around the temple. Cambodians are very proud of their Angkorian past and consider the complex their most important national monument. That figure for tourism I gave was only for foreigners; many thousands of Cambodians also visit the complex every year.

the main complex of Angkor Wat

the crowds were still large even though it wasn't high season

Angkor Wat is considered the largest religious building in the world, but it is far from the only attraction in town. The grounds near Angkor Wat contain hundreds of other temples impressive in their own right. Near Angkor lies the remnants of a walled city, once home to the Khmer kings and some 1 million inhabitants. The structures were built as early as the 9th century then over the course of hundreds of years (Angkor was built in the 12th).

Because the area is so vast and temples so numerous, you can easily get away from the crowds. Even if there are thousands of other tourists, the smaller or lesser known temples only receive a fraction of that number. Even when we were at Angkor there were several times when Mike and I couldn't see anyone else nearby - a very pleasant surprise indeed!

Some temples near Angkor:

Mike and I purchased a three day pass, which cost $40 (a one day pass cost $20). One day we rented out a tuk-tuk driver to drive us around the temple grounds. The area is so vast that you can't walk it. Biking is an option, but the tuk-tuk is comfortable, quick, and cheap - only $15 for a full day! The other two days we spend less time sightseeing; after one whole day we were ready for a break. The temples can start to look the same, and you don't really appreciate them if you try to jam in as many in as little time as possible.

The town of Siem Reap itself is quite small; most tourists find themselves near Pub Street, so named for its numerous bars and watering holes. Several blocks surrounding the street have restaurants, shops, travel centers and bars that cater toward tourists.

Mike was getting over a stomach issue so for the first few days we didn't stay out late at night. But our last day there was the start of the Khmer new year, and the town was bustling with activity. There was a concert at Angkor Wat that evening, but we spent our time soaking up the atmosphere on Pub Street. Crowds of locals and tourists alike gathered in drink and dance both at the bars and in the street. A rope appeared and soon groups formed for tug of war battle. We stayed primarily at a bar named Angkor What?, famous among backpacker circles where more than a few party-goers - Mike included that night - take to dancing on the outdoor tables.

We had arranged transport to the capital the following day - luckily not too early. Four days in Siem Reap seemed like enough, good to explore the vastness of the temples, sample some nightlife, and get a healthy dose of sleep as well!

And a few more pics: