Xam Nuea and Vieng Xai

August 03, 2013

I planned one more stop in Laos before heading to Vietnam, to a place called Xam Nuea (the X is pronounced as an S sound, and I have seen both letters used in the spelling for some reason). There really isn't much to see in Xam Nuea, but nearby Vieng Xai is an interesting stop. Scattered around the countryside are hundreds of caves which sheltered the Pathet Lao leadership during the Secret War.

Xam Neua/Nua is in northeastern Laos,
near the border with Vietnam

Overlooking part of Xam Neua

This part of the Vietnam War is probably unknown to most Americans, and was to me as well before I came to Laos. In addition to bombing Cambodia, the US did the same in Laos to try and disrupt the Ho Chi Minh Trail. The trail was used by north Vietnamese troops to send supplies and soldiers to the battlegrounds of South Vietnam. Unfortunately for Lao the trail ran through its territory. Many Lao people were sympathetic toward the north Vietnamese Communists, and the Pathet Lao (the Lao Communists) actively supported their neighbors.

The Pathet Lao were mostly poor farmers fighting
against the US-backed central government

In response the US set up a secret base in Lao from which it could make bombing runs into the eastern highlands, targeting the Pathet Lao and North Vietnamese communists. As was the case in Cambodia, the bombing affected civilians the most. Many were killed or driven from their homes, and the bombing turned public support in favor of the Communist fighters who were resisting the outsiders.

The leaders of the Lao communist organization hid out in caves around the town of Vieng Xai for years as the US waged their wider war in Southeast Asia. In 1973 a peace accord was signed with the US-backed government and the Communists, and by 1975 the Communists were in power. Fortunately they were not like their genocidal Khmer Rouge neighbors. Their economic policies have not been the most effective, but at least stability and peace replaced the war and chaos of the 1960s and early 70s. The party is still in power today, and any democratic change looks to be a long way off. They have also instituted economic reforms, and the country is now enjoying enviable economic growth numbers (albeit from a very low base).

the caves served as homes for the Pathet Lao
leadership as well as a hideout for soldiers and
villagers during the bombing raids

a cave entrance

My overnight bus (in which my neighbor was puking on and off the whole time) arrived at 6 am in the pouring rain. There was a government conference in town and the first few places I found were fully booked. Luckily it didn't take me too long to get a place to unload my things and rest! At the hotel I met an American who worked for an NGO in Vientiane - we were the only two foreigners at the hotel - and together we rented motorbikes and drove to Vieng Xai.

The tour of the caves was insightful and worth the visit. It wouldn't be reason enough to take a 16 hour bus ride, but it was a nice pit stop on the way to Vietnam. I stayed a second night, and during the day took the motorbike for a joyride around the country. It was a great experience. The scenery was beautiful and the people friendly, although very surprised to see a white guy. Many gave me a long stare and look as if to say, "why the hell are you here?" Not in a menacing way, but more out of curiosity. The kids were really cute as well. Some were too shy to even say hello, but many gave me a wave or smile.

Some pictures from the ride: