Songkran 2015, Thai New Year in Bangkok

Andrew and I both agreed that four nights in Pattaya were more than enough, and we were happy to head back to Bangkok.  You can't exactly escape from the sleazy side of Thailand in the capital; heck, many travelers go to Bangkok for the strip clubs, prostitutes, and sex shows.  But while Pattaya is a small city, Bangkok is a major metropolis of over 14 million, so there is a lot more to explore.

Andrew and I did do some cultural sightseeing, visiting Wat Pho, a temple complex that houses the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand (wiki).  The most impressive piece on display is the Reclining Buddha statue, which is 46 meters long!  We also explore several areas of the city and checked out a few markets where Andrew bought souvenirs.  I didn't mind window shopping, but am not particularly keen on collecting more stuff at that point, especially when it requires me lugging it around for an undetermined number of months.

part of the Wat Pho complex

the massive Reclining Buddha

The major reason we came back to Bangkok, aside from the novelty of it for Andrew, was for Songkran.  Songkran is the name given to the traditional Thai New Year festival.  Each year the festival runs from April 13-15th, which coincides with the end of the dry season.  Traditionally water was used as a symbol for washing away past sins and bad luck, although it is now used for much more than a simple ceremony.  Songkran is commonly known to expats as the water festival, and for good reason; for three days the country shuts down and turns into a giant water fighting venue.

Being the largest city in Thailand, Bangkok has the biggest Songkran festivities (Chiang Mai in the north is also known for its celebrations).  Entire districts of the city turn into a war zone, except instead of bullets and bombs the participants use water guns and buckets.  Store owners and residents set up huge tubs of water along the street where fighters can re-load their guns for a small fee (15 to 30 cents).  I've even seen pictures of an elephant spraying water on the crowd, although we must have missed that - maybe in the north.

foreigners getting into the water fight action

I never did see any elephants!

Andrew and I arrived in Bangkok on Sunday, April 12th, the day before the festival was due to commence.  We hadn't booked anything but managed to find a cheap hotel near Khao San Road.  Khao San is known as the backpacker area of Bangkok, and although I've been there enough already I wanted to experience it for Songkran.  The area has a reputation as the place to be for water fights and parties, so we didn't want to miss out; if we were going to experience Songkran, we might as well dive in head first.

When we arrived on Sunday afternoon it looked like the party had already started; streets were closed to through traffic and thousands of people were running around with water guns.  While looking for a hotel we didn't even try to reach Khao San Road, the epicenter of the event, since it would ensure we - and our luggage - would get soaked.  After finding a place and checking in we bravely ventured out for dinner, purchasing water guns from a street vendor along the way for protection.  If it was like this and the festival hadn't even officially started I couldn't image what it would be like tomorrow!

On Monday morning Andrew and I were rudely awakened by the sound of thumping dance music.  It sounded like some sort of Thai house music coming from just outside our window.  When I looked outside, sure enough, there was a parade on the street with huge speakers set up along the road.  After  an hour of struggling to get more sleep I gave up; it took Andrew awhile to abandon hope that the music would stop, but he finally got up and we prepped for the fight.

We ended up staying next to the parade route; I'll spare you a video of the music.  If you want to check out what the 
crowds were like on Khao San here's a short video from Youtube (it's 2012 but basically the same thing).

There were even more people out and about than Sunday, so much so that Khao San and the surrounding streets were packed shoulder to shoulder.  Get anywhere near the party and you were sure to get wet; those who happened to be dry, especially tourists, made for even more enticing targets.  It didn't help that I was a head taller than almost every Thai and stuck out like a sore thumb.  It didn't take long to give up on avoiding the water and just embrace it, even the icy cold buckets that locals loved to dump on the unsuspecting backpacker.

Songkran festivities on Khao San Road

Andrew and I periodically refreshed ourselves with 7-11 beers, then split a $5 bottle of Sang-som rum that afternoon - it's cost effective and easier than constantly carrying around a glass bottle.  By the evening several streets around Khao San had turned into a dance party.  The speakers kept blaring the same Thai music - I don't know how to categorize it, but after hearing it once it was sort of catchy, twice was enough, and after three days I'll be fine if I never hear it again.

Sang Som and cola, a Thai specialty.  Actually it's just easier to
drop the Coke and get to business!

To protect valuables against the water (particularly phones) we purchased water proof plastic pouches that went around our necks.  Many people used them as a way to keep valuables dry and in sight.  It was a good method, but unfortunately it meant we weren't taking many pictures for my blog!  Monday night, however, Andrew managed to lose his wallet, but not his necklace.  My ID was in his pouch and also got swiped, but fortunately he still had his phone.  I don't know how it went down, but we guessed it could have happened when he took the wallet out to pay for something.  In any case that meant I was our only source of cash, so I'd be Andrew's ATM for the length of the trip.

You can buy these waterproof bags all over the city during Songkran; it's
a worthwhile investment, but it won't protect you from theft!

On Tuesday we switched venues to a hotel near Silom, which is kind of downtown Bangkok.  The city doesn't exactly have a center, but many international business offices and upscale tourist hotels are located in Silom.  Khao San is in an older area of the city and has a very different vibe.  Silom was one of the other big party spots for Songkran and Andrew and I wanted to get a feel for the festivities there too.

This time our hotel was further away from the madness, which was probably a good thing.  We stayed close to Lebua Tower, the iconic hotel which was featured in Hangover 2.  Near Silom station, a few miles from our hotel, a scene similar to Khao San unfolded, with thousands of water-gun-wielding Thais and a few foreigners in the mix.

water festival action in Silom

We stayed near Lebua Tower; remember it from Hangover 2 (where
the gang meets the undercover agent who arrests Leslie Chow)?

Scene from Hangover 2 on the Lebua Tower rooftop

Probably the most fun Andrew and I had was at the foam party, which was a three day event coinciding with Songkran.  The party was held in the parking lot of a club in Sukhumvit (not far from Silom), with a stage, DJ booth, pool, and foam machines set up for the occasion.  Entry fee was close to 20 bucks, expensive by Thai standards, but it was worth it.  Both Andrew and I had never been to a foam party before, but we had a great time messing around in the foam and dancing with lots of random people.

That was a fun party!

Here's a video from the official facebook page of the party:

By the third day of Songkran Andrew was getting tired of all the water.  Even in the areas without massive crowds we were still susceptible to an attack, making it hard to go about normal business.  It wasn't as hard for locals but as foreigners we were often a target.  In general I was still enjoying it, but I do admit that once the festival ended it was a relief to be able to walk down the street without worrying about your phone getting wet.  I can see how it gets old for Bangkok residents, but then again, it's only three (well really four) days of the year and there really isn't anything else like it (at least that I know of).

By Thursday the 16th Andrew and I were ready for a change of scenery, and we had booked a last minute flight to Krabi, in the south of Thailand.  The bus would have taken 10 or more hours, and as it turns out flights on Air Asia weren't much more.  For an extra $20 over the bus fare we went from a full day ride to an hour and ten minute flight.  We left Bangkok at 4:10 pm and arrived in Krabi by 5:20!