Manila

January 09, 2013

I arrived in Manila on the evening of Sunday, December 16th. I was flying out on Wednesday, so only had three nights in the city. Manila, or rather the Manila capital region, is a collection of many smaller cities with their own core or central areas. The area has grown and sprawled so much that there is no real separation between each city, just more development. The metro area is home to over 20 million people, about a fifth of the country's total.

Flying over central Manila

View just before landing at the airport

Despite its size and importance to the country, most travelers either stay for only a few days or avoid the capital altogether. Common complaints include the horrid traffic, pollution, lack of cultural significance, and poverty that can seem impossible to avoid. Although these points are all valid, I still believe Manila has value and is worth a visit. I wouldn't spend weeks there, but at least several days.

There is no denying that the traffic is terrible. To try and ease the roads (and the pollution) the city constructed a light rail / elevated train network. It is for sure better than nothing, but nowhere close to adequate. It only has three lines, and I didn't come across a point along the network where transfers were possible. So if you want to go from Quezon City to Intramuros, for example, you'd have to get off at a stop on one line and walk half a kilometer to the nearest station where you wish to connect.

There are also security checks at every entrance where police search every bag. Add on the fact that you have to physically pay an operator and get change before boarding and it adds up to a 20+ minute wait just to get into the station during rush hour (each stop varies in price depending on the distance, and you have to tell the worker where you are headed to purchase the ticket). So it was definitely not the Seoul subway system - I was amazed at the inefficiencies at the Manila metro, but as the network grows hopefully it will improve.

Poverty is also a glaring problem. I had to get used to being confronted by street kids or mothers with babies begging for change. I expected to see beggars, but it is still hard to encounter them face to face. The poverty is also bad in Cebu City though, so I was prepared and it didn't phase me as much as it may others.

Having said all of that, you may be surprised to hear me say that I also enjoyed the city. I like big cities in general, and it was nice to be in one for a change. Parts of the city, such as Makati, a posh residential and shopping area, resembled a wealthy developed city. There is also an old Spanish section that is definitely worth a visit. Although mostly destroyed during WW2, much of the old Spanish fort wall remains. Some buildings have also been restored nicely and have a colonial feel.

I visited Inturmuros (the old city) on the Monday night with Rodney. Coincidentily he was in town for a meeting so we met up for dinner that night. During the day Monday I walked around Makati. Rodney and I met up with a friend of his that night for dinner and shared a taxi back to Quezon city (where both of our hotels were). I hadn't arranged to couchsurf, so I stayed at a small hostel. It wasn't busy and I ended up having the room to myself both nights.

Part of Intramuros, hollowed out during the bombing of WW2

The crumbling South Cemetery (foreground)
and bustling Makati (background)

Tuesday my flight left in the evening, so I had time to walk around Quezon City during the day. After a long search on foot I finally found the University of the Philippines and checked out the campus. By the time I made it back to the hostel I was worn out from all of the walking and ready to get going. I left extra early for the airport, which was a good thing since the taxi ride took an hour and a half! With no traffic it could have taken 20 minutes (but I doubt that would ever be the case). I chatted with the driver for most of the trip, who was good company for the drive. We had negotiated on 450 pesos but he only charged me 400 and refused to accept more - not exactly your typically cab driver!

My flight left Manila at 11:15 and had a short layover in Bangkok, but I didn't have to transfer planes. I stopped in Kuwait for over four hours where I tried (mostly unsuccessfully) to sleep. Then it was off to Frankfurt to start my holiday trip with my family - who I hadn't seen together since leaving for Korea!