Back to Asia

After visiting Leslie and David and dropping by San Diego to say hello to Henry I was on my way to the Philippines!  I've mentioned this before, but the Philippines is one of my favorite spots in Asia.  It won't appeal to everyone; it's fairly poor, dirty, hot, and the food isn't great.  Sounds awesome, huh?

Slums in Manila...not exactly paradise.

Well I prefer places that are a little rough around the edges.  While traveling around SE Asia back in 2013 I quickly tired of throngs of tourists on the beaches of Thailand and Bali.  Don't get me wrong, that scene can be fun too, but if I'm traveling for a long time it gets old fast.  I'd gladly trade a little comfort for a more authentic experience.  Get away from the crowds and the locals tend to be more friendly, prices cheaper, and the other tourists you do run into more interesting.

Beach scene in Thailand.  Fun for awhile, but it gets old.

Due to it's history as an American colony - the US took the Philippines from Spain at the end of the 19th century - many people on the archipelago speak English.  There are over 100 languages spoken in the country (wow), two of which are official: Tagalog and English.  I like trying to learn some of the local language when I travel, but it is so much easier with lots of English speakers.  I can actually have a meaningful conversation with people, instead of just baby talk followed by an awkward rehashing of the same basic questions.

Not only do many people speak English, but Filipinos are, in general, very friendly.  At home you don't typically chat with random people on the street (if you are a normal person), but social norms change when traveling internationally.  As a tourist you'll often get looks of curiosity, and many Filipinos enjoy chatting up foreigners.  In a foreign country if someone is overly friendly toward me I'm generally guarded.  Many locals in poor countries assume all foreigners are rich - and to them you are, even if you're just a backpacker - and see you as a financial opportunity.  Most Filipinos that have been friendly with me, however, seem to be genuine.

Even the Filipinos who look tough can be friendly.
Just smile and they usually do the same!

Add in affordability, not too many tourists, warm weather, good beer, and beautiful natural scenery, and it's not hard to see why I like the Philippines.  Like I mentioned, the country does have its drawbacks, but overall I'm a big fan.  Okay, enough with the rambling.  Let's get on with my trip.

I flew from LA to Manila with a stopover in Taipei.  In all the one-way ticket cost me $430...a pretty damn good deal if I do say so myself.  The layover in Taipei was uneventful, but I did have a few hours to walk around the airport.  A friend mentioned that the shops in the airport give away free samples, but unfortunately it was super early in the morning and most places were still closed.  I did get a kick out of the gates that had their own themes.  One was decorated with baseball paraphernalia, another with old model airplanes, and true to form, one gate was devoted solely to Hello Kitty.

Yes, this is a real airport gate at Taoyuan airport in Taipei.

Remember back in February when that plane in Asia clipped it's wing on the freeway just after take-off and crashed in the water?  Someone got a video of it mid crash and it made the news rounds back home (so I was told).  Well that plane was leaving the airport in Taipei the same morning my flight was headed for Manila.  I left earlier, and there were probably hundreds of flights that morning, but it was still just a bit freaky.

This crash back in February was the same morning as my flight to Manila.

Once I arrived in Manila I spent two nights at a hostel near Makati, one of the more upscale areas of the city.  I actually arrived without booking a place and just did it in person.  All I had were the addresses of a few hostels.  The first one was booked but I managed to get a bed at the second place.  It was actually kind of expensive - 550 pesos, or $13 a night - so not exactly pricey but more than hostels in many other parts of SE Asia.  Overall it was a quaint place (did I just use that word?), pretty small and comfortable but a quiet atmosphere.

I had been looking for a host on Couchsurfing, and after two nights at the hostel finally found one to put me up at his place.  The hostel was fine, although I preferred to stay with a local.  I'd already seen a lot of Manila and didn't feel the need to do touristy things.  While at the hostel I went on a walking tour of Intramuros, the old city, and did a lot of exploring / wandering around neighborhoods on my own.

Part of the old Spanish wall around Intramuros; unfortunately the area
was largely destroyed during WW2 bombings (when the US retook 
Manila from Japan), but some of the colonial architecture has been restored.

I took a walk in a poor area of town, which was one of my favorite memories of Manila.  All the kids stopped to stare (some of the adults too), and it seemed like every other person wanted to say hello.  Some people were pretty confused to see a white guy walking around the neighborhood, but once I flashed a big smile they usually did as well.  Nearly every kid I talked to introduced him or herself with a "Hello mister!"  and if I asked how they were I got a near unanimous "I'm fine thanks" often followed by giggling from the girls.  Hey, I kinda felt like a star.  Hmmm, best not to let all that attention get to my head!

Most of the kids were really outgoing; some looked at you like
an alien, others like a celebrity.  You definitely get a lot of attention!

On my third day I met up with Dennis, a Filipino of Chinese descent who has his own place in a district of Manila called Pasig.  Despite working long hours Dennis did his best to get to know me and make me feel welcome.  To get into his neighborhood I had to first go through a security station (common in middle and upper class areas of the city).  Things weren't too strict, as I simply mentioned his name and the guard let me though.  Once I got to his apartment his driver let me in.  So Dennis is well off by local standards, but let me explain.  Help is so cheap in the Philippines that many people have a live-in cook, cleaner, or driver.  Still pretty cool though!

That evening I rode with Dennis' driver to pick him up from the gym.  In addition to his long work hours he also trains for triathlons!  Oh yeah, and he often hosts people through Couchsurfing.  If I can just figure out what gives Dennis his energy I'd bottle it and make millions.  Seriously, the guy is like an energizer bunny.  He's also extremely friendly and hospitable.

Dennis' profile pic on Couchsurfing - a
pretty good reflection of his personality!

That night we had a couple drinks with Dennis' accountant at a private club.  Dennis owns several restaurants in Manila and his parents, back in the provincial city of Iloilo, own a construction company.  Many Chinese Filipinos (who number in the millions) trace their roots back to merchants who left China centuries ago.  They are strongly represented in the Filipino business community and have a reputation for wielding lots of power.  Dennis wasn't exactly on that level, but at the club he did point out a few businessmen in a meeting with a newspaper editor.  In his words they (the businessmen) tell the writers and editors what stories to publish.  Now that's some influence!

On Friday night Dennis and I had a few drinks in Makati and checked out the grand opening of a new hostel (owned by his friend), but we didn't get too crazy as he was heading out early the following morning on a biking trip.  Despite the fact that he would be gone Dennis invited me to spend Saturday night at his place.  After knowing me for only two days he offers his place to me?  What a nice guy!  As it turns out Mike, my friend from OSU, was due to arrive Saturday night and we needed a place to stay in Manila.  More on Mike's arrival in my next post!