Twice in Hanoi

Before my trip to Ha Giang (previous post) I was in Hanoi, and I made another stop in the capital on the way back.  The first time around I stayed in a hostel in one of the touristy areas of the city.  The place, called Hanoi Backpackers, is a popular place for young travelers.  The same owners also run hostels in several other cities throughout Vietnam.

The Hanoi Backpackers Hostel actually has two
locations in Hanoi, both downtown

I thought my two nights in the hostel would be more eventful, but they turned out to be quiet.  On the bright side that gave me more time and energy to explore the city during the day.  Central Hanoi is surprisingly easy to walk.  Sadly most of the country was destroyed during war with the US, but old town in Hanoi is one of few remaining colonial quarters in Vietnam.  It can be fun just to wander around the winding alley ways, sample local street food, and sit at a cafe and observe the frenetic pace of city life.

And frenetic is a great way to describe city life in Vietnam.  Just take a look at this video of traffic in Ho Chi Minh City (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4phFYiMGCIY).

In Hanoi and HCMC countless motorbikes compete with a few taxis and private cars for space.  Even most taxi drivers use motorbikes, called 'xe om' (x pronounced as an s).  Actually as a tourist it can get really annoying walking around town with moto drivers pushing for your business on every street corner.  I don't know if i could handle living in a city like Hanoi but to say the least the traffic was an experience.

Welcome to Vietnam...wanna drive?

Crossing the street is also an experience.  In my guidebook a section entitled 'crossing the street' is included for Vietnam.  In the busy areas of the city it is rare to have a chance to cross without any moto bikes in your way.  You could wait for 20 minutes on some street corners before getting a real chance to cross without any traffic.  The way to do it is walk slowly out into the street while the bikes drive around you.  Just don't run or suddenly stop and the drivers will easily avoid you.  That may sound frightening, and at first it is.  But after traveling SE Asia as long as I have it became a routine, almost fun activity.  It was definitely amusing to watch the rookie tourists freak out when trying to get across the street.

They don't seem too freaked out!

While walking around the city I also visited a few museums in town.  My guidebook recommended an ethnographic museum, but it was on the outskirts of Hanoi.  Instead I stopped by a former prison run by the French colonial government.  Prior to the war with the US, France ran Vietnam, along with Cambodia and Laos, as the colony of French Indochina.  Vietnamese nationalists caught by the colonial government were imprisoned and tortured at a prison in central Hanoi.

In 1954 the French were defeated by Vietnamese nationalist forces (led by Ho Chi Minh).  Independence was to be short-lived, however, as the country was split in two with the US supporting the pro-West government in the south.  As war with the Communist north intensified the former colonial prison was turned into a POW camp for US fighter pilots downed during bombing missions in the north (more bombs were dropped by the US in former French Indochina during the Vietnam War than were dropped by all sides during WW2).

Ho Chi Minh formed the first Vietnamese Communist party all the way back in 1925
 and led the north during the Vietnam War until his death in 1969.  He is considered a
father of modern Vietnam and his image is everywhere in the country

Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum, inspired by Lenin's in Moscow.

Most interesting was the section of the museum dedicated to the period when US POWs were imprisoned there.  The Vietnamese government is still a one party state, and propaganda is common.  For me it was more comedic - I try to take things lightly - but I can see how it would be enraging for a former POW.  At the museum there are plenty of pictures of the US prisoners playing games, writing letters, and decorating the barracks for the annual Christmas party.  There was even a picture of Senator John McCain (who was a POW during the war).  The video is quick to point out how well the prisoners were treated, especially in relation to the Vietcong prisoners in the south.  No mention of torture of course.

Near central Hanoi a top tourist attraction is Hoan Kiem Lake.  The lake, with a scenic island temple, is a (somewhat) quiet respite from the endless honking and revving of motos.  Although much of Hanoi is buzzing with commerce and change there are also many other classic Chinese influenced Confucian temples tucked between the storefronts.

Hoan Kiem Lake in central Hanoi

A view from the temple within Hoan Kiem Lake

Following my trip to Ha Jiang I opted to couchsurf with a local Vietnamese family.  The girl who listed her profile studied abroad in California during university, but her mom and brother didn't speak much English.  Even in big cities - especially in the north - English is rare.  Despite the language barrier they made me feel comfortable and at home, cooking traditional Vietnamese dishes and helping me with transport to and from the city centre.

The couple of days at my host's house were relaxing.  I needed a break after the long days on the road in Ha Jiang province.  I still managed a visit to the Vietnamese history museum (unfortunately not much to see there) and to West Lake, a huge body of water strangely enough in northern Hanoi.  It's a great spot for biking, running, or just a stroll.

View of West Lake, much larger than Hoan Kiem

Despite her busy work schedule my host took me out to meet her friends for drinks one night.  Hanoi, and Vietnam in general, is full of small street-side stalls and restaurants selling homemade draft beer.  The beers are brewed without preservatives and meant to be consumed the day of.  In Hanoi the Bia Hoi (draft beer) stalls are everywhere.  And the best part - you can get a cold fresh brew for as little as 25 cents!  That's right, I said a beer for a quarter.

A typical street scene in Hanoi, where you can get at least 
one cold one with the change in your pocket

My favorite store in Hanoi

My host wasn't much of a drinker so we didn't stay out too late.  It was nice to meet a few locals who were my age - as opposed to random kids I was passing out candy to on my motorbike!  After three nights with my host in Hanoi it was time for me to take an overnight bus south, to the town of Hue.