Atami, Sizuoka, during Covid-19

Back in early May I took a day trip to Atami, a town in Shizuoka prefecture along the northeastern shores of the Izu Peninsula. From my apartment in Yoyogiuehara it took me about two hours and twenty minutes by train, with one stop at Fujisawa Station. I could have transferred to the Shinkansen (bullet train) and cut the time down to an hour and twenty, but that would have turned a $15 train ride into over $40 one way. So in the interest of cost I stuck with the local lines.

Atami lies along the bullet train line running from Tokyo to
Shizuoka and on to Nagoya and Osaka, further west

In late May some attractions reopened and people began to return to their offices, but when I went to Atami many businesses were still shut due to Covid-19. Japan never had a strict lockdown, so trains were still running, albeit with a fraction of the normal crowds. That was one unexpected benefit of the pandemic--spacious public transport and peaceful streets in the normally hectic center of Tokyo.

Near the train station in Atami there is a covered walkway with dozens of touristy shops selling souvenirs and local food for the day and weekend tourists. When I visited, however, only a handful were still open. I was hoping to grab lunch before setting off to explore town, but I didn't see any open restaurants which piqued my interest. Instead, I headed to the central area, about 15 minutes on foot, in search of a good lunch spot.

Atami is a resort town famous for its hot springs, frequented by Tokyoites looking for a quick getaway. Back in the 1970s and 80s it was a popular business retreat destination--companies often organized outings for their workers (even after the long hours at the office, you also had to vacation with your colleagues). But after the economic bubble burst and companies cut back on retreats, Atami lost its luster. There were still dozens of hotels and tourist shops, but it felt like the town's heyday had long gone. I'm sure things would have been more lively had it not been for Covid-19 though, and the rainy weather also didn't help.

This is an image of Atami beach from Wikipedia; looks like a
happening spot, with lots of sun and sand

The same beach when I was there, deserted (I noticed several buildings
in my picture aren't in the Wikipedia photo; I assume it's dated)

And some of those new buildings never got finished. The heyday
of Atami as a business retreat and hot spring resort destination have passed

I eventually bailed on my search for a restaurant and decided instead to pick up a bento box from the supermarket. After a brief stop at the Kinomiya-jinja Shrine, I headed to the Atami plum garden in search of a good spot where I could eat and shield myself from the constant drizzle. I luck out; the park was completely empty, and I found a small gazebo where I posted up for my meal (pictured on the left). The park was beautiful, with lush greenery in every direction, and I had it all to myself!

From the park I walked back into town, first to the marina, and then headed in the direction of Atami Castle, which overlooks the city from a hill just south of town. I knew the castle itself would be closed, but I still wanted to check out the exterior and get a view of the coast below.

Atami station is about a 15 minute walk from the town center. I
went from the Chuocho area to the Kinomiya Shrine, ate lunch
at the plum garden and then circled back to the shoreline

Fishing boats in the Atami harbor. The base of the hill leading
up to the castle is in the background on the left

I took what I thought was a bus to the castle but actually sped past the turn off and continued further south along the coastal road. I hopped off at the stop just past the Akao Herb and Rose Garden--also closed--and decided just to try and reach the castle by foot. I was initially frustrated that I took the wrong bus, but in fact lucked out--the road just south of Atami wound along seaside cliffs with amazing views of the ocean.

I'm glad I took the wrong bus and got some incredible views!

Eventually I made my way up to the castle, which was cool to see up close, although the highlight was the view of Atami and the coast below. Again, there was nobody in sight, and I could soak in the scenery in peace. From the castle, I walked along a windy road back to town, and by the time I got back to the marina, I was ready for a long sit. It was already after 4 pm at that point, so I made a quick stop at the beach and then continued on to the station, where I got another train with plenty of open seats to rest my weary legs. By the time I reached my apartment it was already dark, and I was worn out from a long day.

Atamit Castle, which was closed due to Covid-19

The view of town was worth the hike

Overall, my trip to Atami was a great excursion from Tokyo. I'd be curious to see how different it feels on a clear summer day when people aren't worried about a pandemic. But I enjoyed the peace and quiet and had most of the views all to myself! Below are a few more photos: